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AverageAverageAverageAverageAverage 3.75 Good from 94 votes (59170 Visits)

How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)

ParagonRenovations by ParagonRenovations Journeyman(March 2008) (rank 2nd)

Alright so here it is the long and the short of it!

Drop me a line if you need clarification on anything.

Hello all and I hope that 2008 has been a successful and prosperous new year thus far and continues to be one in the weeks and months to come!  

So for all of you who would like to free up some counter space and put that microwave above your stove/ range here is a little insight on how to accomplish this relatively easy task. This is for an OTR that is NOT vented outside but recirculates the exhaust air. I will write another snippet for outside exhausting one at a later date and time.  

**You will need to very first of all ensure that you have a proper power source to plug the unit into. If you do not have an outlet installed in the cabinet above where the OTR will go then you will have to contact an electrician to install one for you. This is a relatively short job as the power sources are usually there already or if you have a vent hood then the electrician can pull the wire right up and utilize this for the power source.**

Okay, so first of all here are the tools you will need:

Phillips screwdriver Drill bits ·       

Usually a 3/8” or a ½” for the two bolts that go in up top) not sure what the metric equivalent is ·       

Spade or auger bit 1 ½” is usually what you will need for the cord to pass through

Vacuum with brush attachment to clean up afterwards Ladder 4’ or shorter is more than sufficient

Straight edge a 2’ level works good for this or any other 18” or longer straight edge

Painters tape or non marring tape will work (it will only be applied for a short period of time so you could use masking tape but it is best to use painters tape to avoid            

Pencil

Tape measure

Stud finder (or keen sense of knocking ability)  

Tools you MAY need:

Socket set to secure lag bolts

Drill with masonry bit (to drill through any backsplash tile)

A helper to lift the unit   **Okay, don’t fret if you miss it or it does not make sense the instructions will also tell you the tools you will need  

You will need about an hour or two to complete this installation  

First step you need to take out the old unit. This is probably the hardest part depending upon how old the old unit is. You may be lucky and not have a unit there at all so this may not even be something you will have to do. If you have a vent hood there right now you will have to go shut off the power prior to performing the removal and the rest is pretty straight forward just look for the screws holding it up and the rest is a cake walk. You will have some sort of panel where the wires are secured together but as long as you have the POWER OFF you will be just fine. The older units secure by usually two long screws located behind the louvers on the top of the old unit. Take the louvers off (they will be held on with two or three short screws) and then you will probably see the LOOOOONG screws running from the front to the back. These screws are long and thin about a ¼” thick and you won’t miss them. The other method requires removing the carcass of the microwave from the sleeve and getting to the bolt at the back of the sleeve securing the sleeve to the wall. There also may be 4 or more screws in the upper cabinet “hanging” the unit in place remove all but one of the screws if this is your arrangement and merely loosen the last. Then get under the OTR and take the final screw out. The OTR will most likely drop usually not fast but it may so BE CAREFUL! If it does not drop fast you may have to gently pry it down. Just investigate a little and the answer will come to you soon enough. If it does not take a picture and send it to me and I should be able to instruct you further or post it here and I usually check quite frequently and will see it.  

OKAY whew now that you got that part done you are in the home stretch!  

Next unpack the new unit. You will find a bag in the packaging with the owner’s manual and another couple documents. The document you are interested in is the top mounting template. Remove this and place the other stuff in a safe location. You will have to find the center line of the space. Most OTR’s are 30” but if the face frame of the cabinets have a ¼” reveal you will get thrown off by this deviation so measure 15 inches off one cabinet side against the wall and mark a line. Then go to the other cabinet side (butting the tape end into the cabinet is the easiest way to get an accurate measurement) the measurement to that mark you made first should be 15” if it isn’t just adjust the mark and once you get an equal measurement then you have your CENTER LINE. CIRCLE THIS LINE SO YOU KNOW WHERE IT IS. You will want to also locate and mark your studs. Sometimes there is only one stud in the opening find it and mark it. You will want at least one bolt into at least one stud if you can get two that is even better. This lag bolt should probably go into one of the bottom holes and the expanders in any of the others.  

You need to now figure out the bottom of the microwave so on the back of your new OTR there is a mounting bracket sometimes they are taped on or sometimes they are screwed on either way remove the mounting plate and get rid of the screws or tape that held it on the back of the new OTR you won’t need them unless you want to put them in your junk drawer.  

Take the mounting plate and put it in place tight up to the bottom of the cabinets and draw a line across the bottom of the mounting plate. Now you know that you shouldn’t mark below this line. Next you need to scribe that centerline you marked earlier up and down so use your level to do this. Mark from the line that you just drew at the bottom of the mounting plate all the way up to the bottom of the cabinets.   Now you know where your centerline is and you also know where your stud(s) is/are. Next put the wall bracket down and get out your upper cabinet template. You might want to tear off a 6” or so long piece of tape and tape it on the front of the cabinet and mark a center line on that as well using the same process as before. 

If you are scratching your head and wondering why just look at that template and you will realize why this is important. Abut the template into the back wall with the centerline on the template in line with the template on the wall. Now start taping this template in place. Once you have it in place you will need to more than likely drill three holes (two holes for the 1/4”bolts that will hang the unit and one 1 ½” for the power cord to pass through). Once you get these holes drilled you can take the template down and move onto the mounting plate.   This is easy too just hold the template on the wall with the little triangles that are on the bottom of the bracket and the point of the triangles will go on the centerline then mark the other holes with a pencil and take down the bracket. Now you will need to drill 2 or maybe 3     ¾” holes where you made the marks and the last two or 1 will be where the lag bolts will go. Drill those ¾” holes and put the bolts with the expanders into the mounting plate and then into the holes you just drilled into the wall. Now tighten the bolts and remember to put the point of the triangle on the centerline and tighten up the bolts all the way. The top legs or the wire of the mounting bracket will butt up into the bottom of the cabinet. Now to finish the mounting plate up just screw the lag bolt(s) into the stud(s) and voila the mounting plate is done. Now you have the holes in the top cabinet and the mounting plate up next go get the OTR and you may need help with this.

Carry the OTR over to the recess and feed the power cord through the 1 1/2 “ hole and then tip the bottom of the OTR in and hook it on the two nubs of the mounting plate. 

Next tip the top of the OTR up and while you are doing this feed the cord up into the top cabinet. Once the top of the OTR is tight to the bottom of the cabinet you can feed the hanging bolts into one side of the OTR and get it started and if you can start the other hanging bolt as well. 

OKAY now you can breathe a little. Now tighten up the hanging bolts plug the OTR in and you are done!  

Yes, you may think to yourself I will never be able to do this but I do it all the time by myself and if I can handle it you can too!  

Take care and Happy Refurbing.

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 utahval
Labourer utahval | Vote: | December 5th
Re: How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)
Thanks for the great how to! 

A quick question. We are replacing our current OTR microwave with a newer one.  The current mounting bracket appears to be in good condition and although a different shape has  the bottom "nubs" in the same place.  In your opinion should we change out the mounting plate or can we use the existing one?


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 ParagonRenovations
Journeyman ParagonRenovations | Vote: | December 6th
Re: How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)

Hello Utahval!

I am happy I by chance came by today and saw your post.

I do not know if you have completed the installation or not by now but if the old bracket matches the new OTR by all means go ahead and use it.  If it ain't broke don't try and fix it.

The only problem with the old bracket would be if it does not match up with the he new OTR then you would have to change it out.

Good luck and happy refurbing.

James

P.S. be sure to visit me at http://www.paragonrenovations.net/ to keep up with where I am at.  I will be starting new construction soon and will be changing gears a little bit so please feel free to visit me and see what new things are in order for paragon renovations soon to become Building Impressions and Marvel Development LLC. Thanks everyone and I am excited for the new changes to occur.



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 jt1544
Labourer jt1544 | 2.00 (Poor) | Vote: PoorPoorPoorPoorPoor | April 2009
Re: How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)
very good read, i reacently installed one myself, and it was very easy.  However, I have a friend who wants to do the same, but he has a tile backsplash.  The question I have is do i continue the installation the same as always afer i drill through the tile or is there some more steps I need to go through?


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 ParagonRenovations
Journeyman ParagonRenovations | Vote: | April 2009
Re: How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)

JT-

First of all welcome!

Second of all the installation does not change all in all.  The only thing that may change is the way you fasten the mounting bracket to the wall.  Each manufacturer (sorry I forgot to look what country you are in as manufacturers may be totally different in other parts of the world i am only familiar with the us) is different in their wall mounting bracket and the hardware each uses.  In the mounting hardware there are two approaches provided for usually.  The first are lag bolts which most manufacturers will recommend that at least one of these lags be anchored into a stud.  This should be complied with as it is a good measure.  The second is a long threaded screw with a butterfly clip or expanders of some sort.   Most real world installations use a combination of these two types of "screws" so it is up to the installer which approach is safest as well as securest. 

The drilling of the tile if close to the edge of the mounting bracket should be done carefully as to not crack the tile.  They should pierce the tiles glazing first with a scratch awl or small bit and then continue with a hammer drill (such as a Bosch SDS bulldog) and a masonry bit sized large enough for the appropriate screw or expander to pass through (which has always worked the best for me).  The next steps are basically the same the only difference is you are drilling through tile first then through the wall surface (which may be drywall or plaster depending upon their home).

So to make a short story really long yes the process is basically the same as a regular wall install hower there is tile on top.  Again, like i said you need to be especially careful when drilling through the ceramic tile to not crack the tiles near the eddge of the mounting brackets where damage may possibly be visible.

Good luck and if I can be of any further assistance please let me know.

James D. Van Raden

Owner- Paragon Renovations 

www.paragonrenovations.net   www.paragonbathrooms.com

 



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 jt1544
Labourer jt1544 | Vote: | April 2009
Re: How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)
Thanks very much for the fast response.  The way I am familiar with hanging these things is with using toggle bolts, and I do have the right bits to get through the tile...  I on my way over to help him install it now, so hopefully it goes well.


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 ParagonRenovations
Journeyman ParagonRenovations | Vote: | April 2009
Re: How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)

You will be fine then and I hope it all went well!  Let me know if I can be of any further assistance!

James D. Van Raden

Owner- Paragon Renovations

www.paragonrenovations.net   www.paragonbathrooms.com  



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 louie123
Labourer louie123 | 2.00 (Poor) | Vote: PoorPoorPoorPoorPoor | February 2009
Re: How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)

Good read, I think I would have been successful, I have a question and hoing someone can help, I recently had new kitchen cabinets installed at significant expense, also bought the four new kitchen appliances, I went to install the OTR but thought the bottom of microwave was going to be way to close to surface of range (12.5 inches ), I've been arguing with the cabinet place ever since (over other problems as well), they're appeasing me because they've only received half the cost of cabinets and installation, anyway the exact measurement between bottom of the kitchen cabinet and range top is 29.4 inches, they argue 30 inches is what it should be so not big deal however my wife and I can't see how we can cook on the range with only the 12.5 inches clearance, I'll welcome any thoughts.

Sincere Thanks, Louie

 



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 ldyvl3
Labourer ldyvl3 | Vote: | March 2009
Re: How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)
The building code says that you must have at least 18 inches from the bottom of the microwave to the cooking surface. It looks like you need to raise your cabinet up 5 1/2 inches to meet code standards.

The big issue here is having enough room on the back burners to use pots and pans. This is why the standard was set up and it is a good rule. You may like the height but if and or when the house comes up for sale that will be a problem and it will have to be corrected before the sale takes place.


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 ParagonRenovations
Journeyman ParagonRenovations | Vote: | March 2009
Re: How to install an OTR (over the range microwave)

ldyvl3,

I have just seen louies response and also saw yours.  He had posed the question on the Q&A section and yesterday I responded with some information for him.  I know what he is looking for and that is the magical simple answer we all wish we could get from time to time, however it is not that simple unfortunatly.

The most important thing for him to do is have his cabinet maker check what their local code is for combustable material clearances.  In some municipalities it is 30" from the stove top to the bottom of the wood cabinet (combustible material).  Depending upon his appliances whether they are gas or electric it can even be as high as 36".  

For those of you who are looking at this posting for personal information and wondering why the code is as it is I will give you a couple primary reasons for the code.  The codes also generally read that the cavity above the stove must also be as wide as the stove so if you have a 36" stove top you can't make a 30" cavity above it. 

The reasons behind this code requirement is one obvious one that I have eluded to thus far.  This is combustible materials.  The code is protecting homeowners from creating a potential fire hazard intheir homes.  Another reaso is for the protection of the OTR's.  If the OTR is too close to the heat source it can cause premature failure of the OTR and its electronics.  Another reason for this code requirement is safety driven.  If there is not enough rom under the OTR for a person to manipulate pots and pans there is the potential for a severe burn to occur.  Codes are designed to protect us from ourselves and safety is the key ingredient to this equation.

So with that said I think that the cabinet is too low and even at 29.4" it will not meet the minimum threshold of the building code in many municipalities.  The easiest way to fight this is to check the specific code requirement in their location and get it in writing and if the cabinet is at 29.5" and the code reads 30" the cabinet builder will probably state it is close enough.  Close only counts in hand grenades, horseshoes and A bombs and not in meeting code requirements!  This then is an opportunity for the homeowner to adjust the height of the cabinet and get what they want as long as the sides of the abutting cabinets are not skinned but regardless the skin on the cabinets are still in this case at 29.5" and wil have to be reskinned if that in fact is the case.  I am guessing that even if the homeowner is looking at a potetial sale of the house the sale will not be called off due to the height of the cabinetry however if it were to be going through a final inspection as a new construction and the inspector was astute enough to notice a slight variance in the height of the cabinets then the problem would be major.  I want to say that the problem in this case is something to pay attention to because I am guessing that a fair amount of money has been invested in these new cabinets.  The homeowner must also be aware of the height and if the height was specified by the homeowner then they must bear a portion of the responsibility in this one.  HOWEVER if the client DID NOT see the specific height that the OTR would be at then I think the cabinet maker is at fault. 

In conclusion: Read your contract and get the exact verbage of the code and if it is 30" then that is NOT 29.4".  Code is your strongest ally in this case because if it DOES NOT meet code the building officials in your municipality should ensure that it does meet code by the time the project is finished.  Also did the cabinet builder pull a permit?  Who was your General contractor on the project?  Is a permit required to be pulled in your jurisdiction for a project like the one you performed?  This is something you should cover with your building officials.  Call them and let them know what you are experiencing and they will help you with your dilemma.

This is a stinky situation and I hope that everything works out in the best interest of all parties involved.



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