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Windows before

Windows with jamb and sill (stool) installed

Windows with casing

Finished windows with curtains

Finished window corner detail


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4.74 Excellent from 7 votes (2729 Visits)

Trim an interior window

by mdhaworth

(June 2007) (rank 3rd)

Windows look better with trim. When we bought this house, the windows in the living room were just set in the drywall (see photo). A few hours work and supplies from the lumber store completely transformed the windows from plain to beautiful.

If you have boring windows, here’s how to make them gorgeous.

Measure your window and go buy supplies:

Jamb stock to cover the inside edges of your window opening. Buy enough for the sides and top of the window opening (the bottom of the opening is where the sill will be). Choose a stock width at least as wide as your window opening is deep and make sure the stock isn’t so thick that it interferes with the function of your window.
Sill (stool) stock (typically 6 inches wide and about ½ inch thick). Buy a piece as long as your window is wide plus about 10 inches.
Decorative casing to go on the wall framing your window on three sides.
Molding to use as an "apron" below the sill (see detail photo)

Installation:

You may want to pre-finish/paint all of your pieces before beginning.
Notch the sill so the center fits into the window opening and the sill extends along the wall a few inches (1/2 inch more than the casing is wide). Set the sill in place and secure with nails.
Cut the jamb stock to the right width for your window depth. Cut a piece the width of your window and nail it to the top of the inside of the window opening.
Cut and install jamb stock to the sides of the window opening (the pieces on the sides will hold the top up and keep the sill down).
Now you'll cut and install the casing. Note that there should be a 3/16 inch reveal. In other words, 3/16 inch of the edge of the jamb stock show when you look at the window. Pencil in this line to be sure you measure properly.
Measure the casing and cut the miters. Here's a tip for installing the casing: Measure the distance between the left and right jamb. Add 3/8 inch to this. This is the short measurement between the mitered ends of your top casing. Nail the top piece of casing into place and on your pencil marks. Now, pre-miter the side casing pieces, leaving them an inch or so long. Hold them on the wall, upside down with the miter's point resting on the sill. Mark the length of the side casing using the top edge of the head casing that you already installed. Cut the square end of the side casing on this mark.
Alternatively, if you don't have a miter saw, you can use rosettes at the upper corners of your window and butt the casing into the rosette pieces.
The apron goes below the sill and completes the look of your window. It should extend to the edges of the casing (it should not go all the way to the end of the sill). Cut the apron to length and miter the ends. Add in a small piece to create a return so the detail of your apron trim turns the corner and terminates at the wall. This is really hard to describe in words but hopefully the detail photo helps you see what I mean. You can attach these returns without nails by gluing them and holding them in place with masking tape until the glue dries.
To really finish off the window, use caulk to hide any gap between the trim and the drywall. You can mask off the wall with tape to minimize the touch up later. After you smooth out caulk with your finger, peel off the tape and it will look professional.
Set nails, patch holes and touch up paint.
Done!

Articles for more information and photos: eHow and DoitYourself

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	ParagonRenovations \| 5.00 (Excellent) \| Vote: \| January 2008

Re: Trim an interior window

Good article

This is something that takes some bravery to tackle! But you can do it, we can ... I think we should adopt that saying here but I think there are infringment laws or something.

ANYWAY, one additional trick I can offer is that when you cut your trim make sure the blade of the saw is pulling toward the edge that is least visible. If doing casing that is usuallthe part of the casing that will be toward the outside of th e"picture frame" and when you cut it as I like that outside of the picture frame to be against my fence I tilt the casing a little bit like just slipping a little bit of my skin on my thumb under the trim AWAY FROM THE BLADE!!! (I think that is a given but I thought I better throw it out there) This gives you a very slight bevel to the wood work and lets the trim come together a little tighter. THe amount of lift will only be about an 1/8" or 3/16's so it isn't very much and it will result in about a 2 degree back bevel.

Other than that well written article and may the force be with you during this project. Buy yourself a little extra trim ALWAYS to account for the woops and it will also let yo upractice a little befor you really start slamming the trim up.

Good luck and Happy Refurbing!