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layinglath.jpg
Putting down the Lath
tiling2.jpg
Spacers
tiling3.jpg
Cat inspector-they are very picky
gmcpic_1.jpg
GMC Red Eye Tile saw
cleantile.jpg
Teflon pad for drill to remove dried mortor
cleanup1.jpg
Cleaning up Mortor
crap_1.jpg
What a mess!
donecutting.jpg
Nearly half done
entrywaydone.jpg
Finshed and ready for sealing
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Laying a Slate Tile Floor

Janeybug by Janeybug Journeyman(June 2007) (rank 1st)

When you take on a remodel or building project you have to have no fear.  I wanted slate in my Kitchen and bathroom and our budget did not allow for a contractor to do this so I had to learn how do to it.

Lucky for me there are tons of books about the subject.  I don't have much paitence when it comes to a lot of reading but there are lot of picture books out there too to get you started.

Cleaning and Preping the floor

The floor needs to be free of dirt and all the nails or screws on your subfloor need to be smooth.  Once this is done you need to decide if your floor needs leveling.    You and buy a product that you mix with water that you can spread on the floor to fill in dips in the floor, you want it as level as possible so it won't crack later on.

Once that is done you will need to put down some lath.  It's a metal or plastic grate of sorts that gives your mortor something to hang on to.  I put this down with a slap hammer.  A wonderful tool that puts down heavy staples.

Now it's time to cut your tile.  Decide on your pattern and cut all the tile before you begin, it's much easier that way, trust me.  Cut it and lay it in place with tile spacers so you know exactally what it's going to look like before you start.  You can rent tile cutters from your local hardware store, some tile stores will let you use them for free if you buy your tile from them.

I bought one on clearence that had a laser light to line up my cuts.  It was under $100 and worked like a dream.  They are messy though so you will need tarps to put down and something to wear to keep your self dry.  I used a large garbage bag with arm and neck holes cut in.

Laying the Tile

Be sure to use a mask while mixing the mortor, you don't want to breath in that stuff and you're going to want to get some knee pads and rubber gloves.

Only mix enough mortor that you can use at one time.  It's hard crawling around on the floor and you will need breaks.  I never mixed more than I could use up in half an hour. 

Stack up your pre cut and pre-laid tile a few rows at a time, have your tile spacers handy.

Use a notched trowel and spread motor on the lath and spread a thin layer on the back of the tile.  Push the tile in place and when you put the second tile in, push in your tile spacers.  The come out easily later once the floor is done and keep your grout lines straight and even.  The floor should fit perfectly since you precut and pre layed it out.

Try to keep the tile clean as you go along with a wet rag.  One way to make this easy is to pre-seal your tile.  That will also make grout clean up a breeze.

Grouting

Once your tile is laid you should stay off of it and let it set up for a few days.  How many days depends on the mortor you used, read the package to be sure.  I let my set up for three days.  

Take out all the tile spacers.   If any are sticking you can use a hammer to encourage them to pop out.  When mixing the grout don't mix too much at a time.  You will need to use a special rubber trowel to push it in and scrape it up.  You need to clean the tile as you go along, presealing the tile will help but you don't whan that grout drying on the surface.

I made the huge mistake of forgetting that we had in floor radiant heat and put down my grout and it started to dry too fast.  I put too much down for starters and with the warm floor it started drying fast and couldn't get it up fast enough.  That created a headach for me and I had to use a special pad on the drill to remove it. 

Finishing up

Once you have all the grout cleaned off the tiles then you need to stay off it again until the grout sets up.  After the waiting period you can do a final cleaning and seal the tile.  Somtimes there will be bits of mortor that got by you when you did your clean up.  You can usually scrap those off with a plastic putty knife.  Slate is very forgiving if you accidently scratch it but ceramic tile is easy to damage.  You need to be carfull.

It's not as hard as it looks and I anyone can do it if you really want to.

 

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 lola77
Labourer lola77 | Vote: | July 24th
Re: Laying a Slate Tile Floor

I had found some beautiful slate called autumn slate and home depot in 2003.  i hired someone to put it in 900+ square feet in the kitchen, family room, entry, dining area 1st floor area.  what a nightmare......the floor was crooked because of the slates variations in thickness.  tiles were higher than others - edges were higher than others - you had to wear shoes in order to walk on it because if you didn't you could really mess up your feet.  i endured four years of this torture because i didn't have the money to pull it out and get a new floor.  this slate should really be used for outdoors due to the variations in the natural stone that do not make it smooth.  Also, when they removed it  there was dust all over the place - and it says not to breathe the dust - but how can you avoid it???

in 2007, i finally had home depot come in and install pergo.  now, pergo is not the best, but compare to what I had it IS the best.  i can walk on a smooth floor beneath my feet now and not tiptoe through my house.  it was truly a nightmare and i am writing this to let others be cautious in having it installed - make sure the guy knows how to handle slate and install it properly.  But, i would say, even with an excellent installation, slate is really hard on bare feet.

Hope this helps with your decision.....



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 ParagonRenovations
Journeyman ParagonRenovations | Vote: | July 28th
Re: Laying a Slate Tile Floor

Lola,

First of all welcome to Refurber!!!  and here is some insight into slate.  Here is a little bit of info and some of my insight on slate, hope it helps!!!

Slate Basics
 
A short primer on Slate as with the popularity of natural materials, I thought it would be time for a short primer on this incredible natural stone material. 
What is slate?

Slate is the Robert Redford of the stone world: Its rugged good looks and versatility allow it to play a wide range of roles; its mood can be rustic and casual or sleek and contemporary. This metamorphic rock works equally well for floors, hearths and fireplaces, backsplashes, counters, and patios.

Slate's many virtues make it a popular choice. It has a less formal look than marble or granite. It's extremely durable, slip resistant, stain resistant (a penetrating sealer makes it more so), and fireproof. It also retains and radiates heat (for use in passive solar homes).

The true elegance of slate is in its colors, from solid hues like black, red, green, gray, and purple to mottled and mixed tones that resemble earthy abstract watercolors. A well-stocked showroom will offer more than 60 variants. The distinctive colors result from the presence of different minerals, such as graphite (blacks), chlorite (greens), and hematite (reds). Slate also has a characteristic patterning--a telltale trace of its formation from layers of shale.  Slate is a natural stone or rock. Rock is made up of minerals and other rocks that give it color. Natural slate usually refers to two different products; slate that originated as shale, and quartzite that originated as sandstone.  Both products are metamorphic rocks, which means that over time, and under heat and pressure, they have changed in form from their original appearance and characteristics. Both slate and quartzite are quartz-based (siliceous) products. This means they share certain characteristics with granite (another siliceous stone), the most important being chemical and acid resistance. 

How is slate produced?

You can buy slate in rectangular and square sizes that range from machine-finished pieces about 1/4 inch thick, which are best for counters and walls, to hand-split ones about 1/2 to 1 inch thick, which are most suitable for floors and terraces.

When you look at the edge of a slate tile, you can see it’s comprised of multiple thin layers. These layers indicate how slate looks in its natural form. Slate is usually split from the quarry in layers.  These layers form surface clefting, which is gives slate its pronounced surface texture. The slate is then cut into tiles or trim shapes, and it can be natural clefted, tumbled or honed. 

What is honed slate?

The face of a slate tile is naturally clefted or uneven. However there are applications where a smooth face is desirable. Some slates and quartzites can have the face ground down to a smooth faced product. This process is known as honing.  Many honed quartzites still have an appearance of depth and texture because of their mineral content.  

What is gauged slate?

Slate is either gauged or ungauged. Gauged slate has gone through a grinding machine, usually to smooth out one side, leaving the other (cleft) side alone. The machine finish guarantees a uniform thickness for ease in setting. Ungauged tiles are uneven on both sides, vary in thickness, and are best used as patio paving.

Grinding or machining one side gauges the slate. Gauging is done for two reasons: to create thickness within a defined range and to provide a flat back for ease of installation. Keep in mind that gauged slate will vary in thickness, but the range of thickness is less than a natural random thickness. Think of slate as a naturally rough stone. It’s cut into squares and gauged but not within the precise dimensional measurements of other stones like travertine or granite. 

What colors does slate come in?

Slate factories may mix tiles from multiple quarries to develop extreme color ranges, and there are slates that are fairly consistent in color. You’ll find that most slates are within a color spectrum like golds and greens, browns and blacks, reds and rust or sandy beiges. Slate should be initially selected from an array of 6-9 samples tiles in order to see the anticipated color range. Final selection should be from as many pieces as you need to see to feel comfortable with the color range. This can be as few as 3-4 pieces, a picture of multiple pieces, or several actual pieces from each pallet that you’ll be receiving. See enough pieces in order to be assured that the slate you receive meets your expectations before your signed approval.

Can slate be installed outdoors?

Slate is a great choice for many outdoor installations. The natural textured (clefted) face of a slate tile provides excellent slip resistance. The multiple earthy colors of slate complement almost any style and color scheme. There are even a few slates that can withstand intense freeze-thaw cycles, but request written laboratory test results before installing slate in snowy conditions.

Can slate be installed in wet areas?

Because of its density and high chemical resistance, slate is ideal for use on patio and pool decks, as well as kitchen and baths. Slate isn’t usually recommended for areas with standing water such as inside pools, waterfalls or fountains. Natural stones should never be used in steam showers.

Should slate be sealed?  It’s not usually necessary to seal slate outdoors. However, as with any natural stone tile, slate installed indoors should be sealed with a high quality penetrating sealer. Sealer should be reapplied every 1-5 years depending on manufacturer’s recommendations and usage. Put a drop of water on the surface.  If it beads up, your sealer is working.  If it doesn’t, it’s time to reseal. 

Insight:

The most popular texture for slate is the roughened surface that results from the cleaving (splitting) process. It's wonderful for floors and patios, as it reduces the likelihood of slipping. The color and irregular pattern of the natural cleft gives each tile a singularity that, when grouped with others in a broad surface, achieves a one-of-a-kind appearance. You may have to purchase more than you need for covering to get consistent color. Slate is commonly sold at home centers, tile shops, and stone yards.

Price varies with type and source, but you can figure on $4 to $7.50 per square foot (some slates are more rare than others)--much less than marble, granite, or limestone. You can often find a limited range of 12-inch tiles for about $2 a piece in the tile section at home improvement centers. Slate is also available in slabs (the price range per square foot is comparable to that for marble and granite slab) for kitchen counters or tabletops, as tiles for roofing, and in random shapes that are suitable for patios. Some manufacturers are beginning to offer tumbled slate in small pieces and etched slate, which can be used to create ornamental details.

The objective is to understand the color, appearance and performance characteristics of the slate tile before it’s shipped so that the final installation would not only meet your expectations, but will be more beautiful than you  ever imagined. 



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 ParagonRenovations
Journeyman ParagonRenovations | Vote: | January 2008
Re: Laying a Slate Tile Floor

Great advice and the pre sealing is a great idea!

You can either pre seal the slate or any porous stone when it is unlaid or after it is laid but~

MAKE SURE YOU SEAL IT BEFORE YOU START THE GROUTING PROCESS otherwise the pores will absorb the color out of the grout and it will diminish the stunning and beautiful colors of the stone and will look like someone came into your home and dumped a bucket of muddy water on it and it dried.

Good advice as DIY IS something you have to be brave about and the easiest thing to do if you are contemplating it is throw a sledge hammer through that wall you have been thinkin about removing and VIOLA you now have to renovate.

I should put a disclaimer on that but I think you get the idea!

Great article Janey!



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 ClayCook
Refurber Founder ClayCook | Vote: | June 2007
Re: Laying a Slate Tile Floor
great photos - really adds to the article


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 mdhaworth
Journeyman mdhaworth | Vote: | June 2007
Re: Laying a Slate Tile Floor
I'm glad to know there is a special tool for removing dried mortar. I did it once with a sander and it didn't really work and was a complete nightmare.

Also, slate is a great choice for the kitchen. We had it at our old house and it never showed any dirt!  Perfect if you don't like to mop.


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