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Tricks of the trade for installing Laminate Flooring

ParagonRenovations by ParagonRenovations Journeyman(September 2007) (rank 2nd)

How many of us install our own laminate?  I would say that more of us than not, so what are some ways to ensure a flawless finished product?  The finished product is dependant upon the set up or the "prep work".

First of all let's talk about the tools that one should have.

Yes, there are a lot of people that get themselves a few hand tools and expect to have a flawless adventure or at least that is the way the home store clinics portray it, unfortunatly it is not!

Some of the necessary tools:

Undercut saw, Miter box (jig saw will work but the power miter saw is the best bet, and a table saw.

First of all let's address the undercut saw, what is it?

This is a tool that allows us to cut the door jambs so that the laminate planks can slip flawlesly under the  jambs and trim eliminating any kind of tricky cutting.  It conceals the cuts and makes the floor look like it was there from the beginning.  Yes you can remove all of the door jambs but it is much easier to just cut them up.

How to utilize the undercut saw?

Simply take a plank of the flooring you will be using and turn it upside down so that the nice wood part of the laminate is face down and the bottom faces up.  What you are doing in this step is setting your thickness and transfering it to the trim.  Now snuggle the saw and the plank right up to the trim and start sliding the saw on the plank back and forth back and forth back and forth until the chunck of trim comes out.  now do this all the way around the door jamb if you are going to place flooring on both sides and continue through into the other room.  If you aren't making the round trip and you are just seeking a one way ticket so you will have to decide for yourself where the best spot is to stop the cutting process and then you can use a chisel to knock  this chunck out.

So now you are ready for the next step, ohh and good job on the undercutting trust me they don't tell you about that step and it makes a superb finished product when you are complete!

You need to put down the underlayment.  Yes you need to put this down as it will void your warranty if you don't but I will be honest with you the warranty process is gruelling and I am not sure it is even worth the effort but lets stick to the techincallities anyway!

Put the underlayment down per the manufacturer's recommendations.  If you can't find Mylar tape for the seams you can...(this is an installer secret so tell NO ONE!!! you can use Duct tape then add Laminate Flooring to the list of 1001 uses for Duct tape)

Then you need to simply lay the floor.  Some of the generic installation kits are as nice if not nicer than the manufacturers installation kits so if there is a $10 or $15 difference in the price then don't be too hesitent to buy the generic set as they all pretty much have the same components tapping block, spacers, and a pull bar.  There are different types of tapping blocks out there and it is just personal preference as to what you get.

You have just layed a floor so now clean it and get to enjoying the room.

What, did I forget something?

OHH YEAH right, "Should I take my baseboards off?"

That is a great question and I always do.  I think that the quarterqound looks like an after thought process but it can be a nice feature if you have old baseboards that are 3/4" thick if you have ranch style baseboards then I would recommend removing the baseboards.  Here is a carpenters trick ( I am going to put myself out of business here giving away all of my secrets, LOL) when you remove baseboards and/or trim and you have nails, NEVER pound them throught the front.  Always use a nippers or a pliers and pull them through the back!  Why?  Because when you pound them through the front it splinters the holes and then it looks like your puppy took the nails out for you.  Pulling them through the back also leaves the putty in place and allows you to reputty only the new holes you created.

OHH YEAAH  and pull out the appliances and install the flooring in the areas that the appliances go into.  I speak as an appliance installer here and it will save someone some skinned up knuckles.  I also know that it costs customers that I install dishwashers for $40 extra dollars (to cut off the front feet) when I go in and a previous laminate installer has locked the front feet of the dishwasher in with the laminate flooring!  This is a nice step and it will give you a chance to clean out the dust bunnies anyway!

I could go on and on with all sorts of technical information but I think I have covered the bases on this one.  With these tips and techiques I think you could lay a pretty attractive floor.  There are variations from manufacturer to manufacturer but the techniques are all pretty much the same.  Who would I recommend for flooring?  I REALLY like installing Wilsonart floors.  The nice thing about this manufacturer is that they have quality products when Wilsonart locks it locks.  Also be aware that although these are lock together floating floors ask your flooring dealer if the floor needs to be glued or not.  There have been some issues with pull aparts and to glue the seams only takes a second and there isn't any clean up like the old glue together floors.

I am going to close here and leave you to install your floor if I keep writing and you keep reading you will never get it done!

If you have any specific questions please don't hesitate to ask me.  My email is jamesvanraden@paragonrenovations.net and you can find my websites at

 www.paragonrenovations.net or www.paragonbathrooms.com

I wish you good luck and the finished product will be your reward!

Happy flooring.

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 ParagonRenovations
Journeyman ParagonRenovations | Vote: | March 31st
Re: Tricks of the trade for installing Laminate Flooring

Jacen,

The tolerances you will actually be able to find in the installation instructions.  Many of them will state a certain level of variance and will go something like, " ensure that the subfloor does not deviate more that 1/8" over a 4 feet area"  Once again you need to consult the individual manufacturers installation instructions for this specific declaration.

Also let me take this opportunity to congratulate you as the prep work is the most important part of the install because a poor preparation can destroy the new flooring in short order.  i know it can be a lot of work however don't skimp on the prep work it again is one of the most important steps in the process.

Now let's move on to possible solutions to your removal difficulties.  you have a couple different options to address these issues.  First of all you removed the o;d tile and left behind was grout and thhinset.  First of all I am assuming that the "stuff" left behind is gray or concrete colored but it is possible that it is white.  If it is white then it is a modified adhesive and not cementuous in nature.  If it is white you can get chemicals to chemically soften and scrape quite easily the remaining residue.  If it is cementuous in nature then here are some options.

I must say I do not envy your situation and the next step will not be pleasant or easy.  It will involve a lot of hard work and effort to properly prepare the slab for the laminate.  One option you can pursue is a hammer drill with a chisel bit.  This is loud,  dusty and heavy and make sure you wear a good set of work gloves, dust mask and have plenty of time.  Also to anyone removing thinset, WET IT DOWN FIRST, it will make it easier but not EASY. It is still UGLY, UGLY, UGLY.

If there is a lot and I say a LOT of left over thinset you can level the floor with a self leveling or Portland cement based patching compound will work.  One product that many professionals use is Ardex K-15.  This is not cheap but good however this process will raise the floor a bit but not much depending on how bad the floor is.

Another approach in the realm of removal is to rent a concrete scarifier like one of these. http://images.search.yahoo.com/searc...fr=yfp-t-501-s

This will make short order of the removal process and get the slab down to a flat receptive surface.

Now if you are down to lino in lets say one entire room and it is intact  and in good condition then you can go over the linoleum with the underlayment and go forth with the project.  Since you are doing this project on a cement slab then ensure that you lay down an underlayment that is approved for over a cement slab to prevent excess moisture from getting to the laminate.  You can also use a 6 mil plastic first and then put down regular underlayment but ensure you seal that floor with the underlayment by sealing the edges with underlayment tape (duct tape will work just fine)

You could also go with carpet down there, relay tile or stain the slab but each option carries its own set of considerations.  Again the prep work is the most important step tomaintain the integrity of the new flooring and ensure that if this is a wet slab that you utilize a laminate approved for use in wet areas to get the most life out of the flooring you can.

Good luck and I hope that this helped and addressed your questions.  Also by no means is this ALL of your options or absolute gospel as there may be other professionals with other views and opinions as to what the proper approach should be.  Take care and I hope that again this helps with your project.

James VanRaden

Paragon Renovations

www.paragonrenovations.net   www.paragonbathrooms.com  



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 Jacen007
Labourer Jacen007 | Vote: | March 30th
Re: Tricks of the trade for installing Laminate Flooring
I was wondering about what kind of prep needs to be done to the floor before installation.. I just removed tile from the floor (slab) and it left behind a lot of stuff. Most of it I was able to scrape off but one area is harder.. one area also had vinyl under it. I scraped down to the vinyl but would I need to remove it also? It's pretty thin. I know the floor is supposed to be level but can it survive 'some' inconsistencies?


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 thedecoratingdiva
Labourer thedecoratingdiva | Vote: | October 2007
Re: Tricks of the trade for installing Laminate Flooring
"HH YEAAH  and pull out the appliances and install the flooring in the areas that the appliances go into."

Golden advice!


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 mdhaworth
Journeyman mdhaworth | Vote: | October 2007
Re: Tricks of the trade for installing Laminate Flooring
Great advice! I was wondering, should you put the underlayment under your board when you are measuring the height to cut the jambs? I wasn't sure if it is thick enough to bother but you'd hate to have to cut those twice.


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 ParagonRenovations
Journeyman ParagonRenovations | Vote: | October 2007
Re: Tricks of the trade for installing Laminate Flooring

MD,

Good question!

You are on the right track and this is a very logical question.  In a round about way you are actually allowing for the underlayment/ vapor barrier.  How so you ask?  The thickness of the undercut saw blade allows for extra room for the underlayment.  The other aspect of the underlayment is it is "squishable" (not sure if that is a technical term or not) and also there is a really good chance that the underlayment isn't going to be directly under the jamb.  The underlayment does not have to go under the door jambs and even if they do a person is okay with the little bit of elevation the underlayment creates.

Again, that is an excellent question and I hope I answered your question!

Sincerely,

James D. Van Raden

Paragon Renovations



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